I apprehended that day, as hikers were telling stories about how the path was poorly signalled, how if you took a left instead of a right you would end in Ecandies (a real rock climbing spot), how part of the mountain had collapsed a few years back along with the trail, how the Swiss recreated somewhat of a path that wasn’t great, how the windows was in fact more rock climbing than hiking etc. With that in my mind, I started hiking around 7:20. I was the first of the refuge but I had seen campers leaving around 6:30.

The first 1.5 km are easy,they don’t feel any different from other parts of the TMB. After the first cross road you're no longer on a flat trail, the landscape is still quite green but as you progress rocks get bigger and merrier until you reach what could be best described as a large river of rocks, remainings of a glacier’s bed. You'll first approach this river from the side from a trail located below the river stone level. For a little while this trail is easier as the path in no longer filled with block of rocks. You'll then arrive to the famous crossroad you should not miss, the signs had been repainted and were obvious, the trail will take you to the right flank of the valley skirting around this rock river from above.

So far the trail had not been physically or technically difficult, being extra cautious and paying attention to the numerous stones in order to avoid ankle injury was the main reason I slowed my pace. I remember looking at the time and thinking that after all I was going as usual and how the difficulty was overrated. Two of the French trailers caught up with me as I arrived to the place you finally have crossed the stone river on top of large rocks. The trailers really had a good technique as they easily jumped from one rock to the next. Soon after, the slope takes an abrupt and you will be climbing up a landslide, hiking poles were no longer of any use, the terrain is a mixture of unstable stones of very various sizes, some being more or less sealed into the ground. For a while now the path had only been signalled by a couple of white and red markings here and there, you had to make your path among and above rocks and rubble. At some point I was given the choice between what looks like unstable smaller rocks and ground in between medium sided rocks. I chose the latter and started climbing, I did not anticipate that the rocks would unseal as would the ground under my weight.
I remember seeing my left grip unsealed and I feeling myself falling, I did not black out but I don’t have full recollection of what happened. The next thing I can remember is being with my back facing the slope in some kind of equilibrium holding by a left trembling foot set on rock partially unsealed, and by my backpack and tripod. I don’t really recall either how I did manage to recover from this position but I did.
From this moment on I had lost all my confidence and although the trail was kind of getting easier and I could now use my poles, I had trouble getting in motion. This was just little before the neve area of the final approach. I waited for a couple of hikers that I spotted when I was back against the wall to catch up and follow their lead on the neve.

I obviously did not take pictures for a short while. The fist picture I took was the next obstacle, the neve. If I was to slip, then I would have a picture this time!! If you look closely on the bottom right of the middle picture, you'll get an idea of what the crumbling mix soil & rocks looked like and you just have to imagine this kind of terrain with the incline of the left picture

The final serpenting approach was hard for me, I lacked the concentration needed and bended my ankle on several occasions, making me wonder each time how come I did not injure myself. I reached the window before 10:00, I was still shaken and could not really enjoy the accomplishment. I felt somewhat warm as I managed to be 0:35 min ahead of the suggested time but that feeling did not last. Going down from the Arpette window was excruciating: every single stone seemed slippery, the slower I was moving the worse it was getting. I was exasperated by my steps that kept skating over and over. The trail was very steep very narrow almost luring you into the abyss. I understand that part of my appreciation was tainted, but there were 4 to 5 occasions where you really could die if your grips failed.

From the top you start with large stone steps about 1m deep, then you have to deal with rolling stones rubble, and when it finally seems to be an easier greener trail it's either on a narrow edge, collapsing while crossing stream or on a wet landslide. (When it wasn't, fear would make me clumsy)

Three full hours to get down to the "Chalet des Glaciers": about twice the suggested time. Physically I was fine, I did not injured myself but psychologically that was too long stress wise. At the chalet, I needed comfort and I gratified myself with a fresh apricot tart and my lunch basket.

Be aware that the chalet refuses to collect garbage. If you ask politely they may indicate you a dumpster located 5 minutes away (across the bridge take a right)

I had finally recovered some assurance and was good to go. The next step was Balme’s pass, the day was sunny and hot but they announced rain in the afternoon and I didn’t want to be deceived by the changing mountain weather. In order to reach the pass, you first have a short but fairly ascending climb for 2,5km and then a trail for 3,5km with little elevation gain. The ascending climb starts as a steep partially shaded forest trail but fairly quickly moves you out in the open, the path ends at the bottom of sheer drop basaltic stonewall, where gigantic steeps carved from the side will take you up cliff. This short trail is physical especially under the sun in the early afternoon. I suspected that my water reserve was low, I could not refill at the chalet, I rationed my water intake during the climb as the bottle I bought at the chalet barely impacted my thirst. I ran empty when I reached the basaltic stonewall, this worried me as I was hours away from the next refuge. Fortunately, an unexpected but pleasing surprise was waiting for me at the top: an unlisted micro refuge with a water source and some refreshments. I wasn’t the only one up there: the two fully autonomous hikers I met the day before were having their ritual well deserved beer.

The weather was still nice but I was convinced that it was changing. I kept my pause to 15 minutes and continued to the allegedly flat trail leading to the Balme’s pass. It isn’t flat at all, it’s quite rugged, I could neither Nordic walk/run my way nor power climb on that one. My mediocre hiking technique aggravated by recurring echoes to my Arpette experience would once-again be source of trouble. One third in I crossed path with one group of teenage French hikers and a party of 3 British lady hikers both coming from Balme’s. They did not seem worried by the traitorous weather and were enjoying the sun in between clouds, but I was getting worried and for the first time of the trip I took my Gore-Tex shell out of my bag and wore it pre-emptively; about 5 minutes later the rain was there. I did not mind the rain but I did not like the sound coming from a thunderstorm that I could hear approaching. This was grand! First my misadventure at Arpette, now this.
Safety rules during thunderstorm: stay away from ridge, stay away from stones, stay away from water sources. In other words I was in the wrong place at the wrong time and I would be for another 2 km, great!
And now, after the rain squall I was being blessed with hail, no time to put an extra warming layer (I only had my Gore-Tex on top of a light t-shirt). I focussed on going ahead double time, I was clumsy, I felt a couple of times, soaking myself in crossing streams. Eventually near thee end the weather game me a break but the trail did not: in front of me was a neve still covered by the hail that had poured a few minutes earlier. The neve was not that long but the slope was steep, I walked really really slow, and as I finally stepped out of it I slipped. I would not fall! Doing some kind of leg split I shove one of my leg in a collapsed portion of the neve, it stopped my slide. Another 500m or so and I was at the Balme's pass and its refuge, at last. From there I could see the lightning in the valley, Charamillion was another 3km in the direction of the thunder, the trail was now easy and I could Nordic rush my way down (fatigue permitting). I had the option to reach a nearby cable car, where some hikers seemed to be waiting for their turn, but as I was pondering my options, some bell echoed from the valley and the cable car stopped. That settled it, I would run my way down. When I reached the refuge it was around 16:20. I had enough.

The refuge: One main ground floor with a large enjoyable comfortable dining room/ bar and a barrack with tiny dorms of 4 where you barely have any room. It's not as bad as it sounds because you can use the really large dining room as living room. Restroom & showers are located at opposite end of dorms in a separate building. The owners are really welcoming and it has this unique feeling that only Family business with a big F has. With barely 12 guests, it felt peaceful.

Social time: This was the place where I was supposed to meet with Nicolas(from DAY-1) but he was a no show. I was a bit disappointed and slightly worried. I had dinner with a nice couple of Australian (Sarah and Craig) doing a 3-days hike in the region. The dinner was about to end when Nicolas finally arrived, his day had been tough. He started from Champex and saw the weather turn when he reached Arpette. He then had to rush down to avoid the rain and the ice storm that hit me in Balme's. We shared a well deserved bottle of red wine and had a good laugh with the Australians who were also heading next to the Lac Blanc. Nicolas decided to follow our lead.